Pickles from Andhra -1 (ఆంధ్ర ఊరగాయలు )

Before Pickling-The Basics


I think that Pickling began with the idea of storing or preserving the seasonal fruits and vegetables. Nature bestows us with various fruits and vegetables and other food stuffs which grow in that season. But if one wants to eat it even after the season what better way than preserving by some means. Moreover by preserving them, they could be carried on travels which could take long hours or days in those olden days. So many experiments, trial and error methods might have gone into these preservation methods, generation after generation.Today perhaps, all most all the vegetables or fruits can be preserved in one way or another. 

There are many home made methods of preserving say potting, jugging, burying, canning, drying, jellying, fermentation, smoking, salting or curing and sugaring, etc. One of the methods of preservations popular across the world is Pickling. Even in Pickling there are many methods like:

• Dry : Baking, barbecuing, broiling, grilling, hot salt frying, hot sand frying, roasting, etc
• Water-based: Blanching, boiling, coddling, creaming, steaming, double steaming, parboiling, poaching, simmering, stewing, etc. 
• Fat-based : Browning, deep frying, frying, pan frying, stir frying, etc. 
• Device-based : Cooking using clay pot, microwaving, pressure cooking, etc 

The most basic ingredients used as preservatives in pickling are salt, oil, vinegar, turmeric etc.

Each country or region or area have their own methods handed down over generations. Historically speaking, Indians knew pickling as early as Vedic times. The process might have changed, improved over the vast time period. Countries like India have been lucky to have influences of various cultures, people from different regions, not only on our culture but also over our cuisines. 

India is well known for its pickles. There is a variety of vegetables and fruits that are pickled through out the year that we Indian women are making pickles of something or the other all the year round. No meal is complete with out at least one or two varieties of pickles. Especially the feasts served in marriages, religious functions or on any important occasions, its a must that a pickle is served. 

The method of making pickles and the ingredients used differ from State to State, area to area and region to region within the State. It differs from family to family. It also depends upon the season. For example in winter it is time for tomatoes, lemons, other citrus fruits, tamarind, red chillies etc.

These days pickles are made out of prawns, other such sea foods and and non veg food items. Now in the summer it is time for the famous Andhra Aavakaya (ఆంధ్ర ఆవకాయ ) or the Mango Pickle. Even within my State of Andhra though the basic ingredients remain the same, some additional ingredients differ depending upon the regions of Coastal Andhra, Andhra, Rayalseema and Telangana, giving a different taste or flavour to the pickle. 

Our pickles are so tasty and popular that it is generating livelihood for many families who are engaged in producing these pickles and selling them not only within our country but also exporting them.

Over the years I have collected these recipes from my grandmothers, my mother and also my friends. They are the traditional methods of preparations guaranteed to give the best taste. I have been using therm for the past few years now. Many of my friends wanted to know about these. So here I am. I will start with Mango pickle since it is the season now. Later on I will also post recipes of the other Pickles.

Before Pickling

• Use the best or finest ingredients as the pickle has to be preserved for at least an year. 
• Choose good quality mangoes used for pickling. Remember that only few varieties can be used for pickling. The varieties that can be used for pickling from Andhra are: Banginipalli (బంగీనపల్లి ) or Benishan, Jalaalu (జలాలు ), Chinna Rasaalu (చిన్న రసాలు ), Pedda Rasaalu (పెద్ద రసాలు), Neelam (నీలం) etc. 
• The Mangoes should be hard, fibrous, well formed with well formed stone inside i.e., nearing the ripening stage but not ripened, green in colour without any cuts or blemishes. The fruits should have been freshly picked. It is better to avoid those fruits which have fallen from the trees due to hail storms or winds or other wise and are battered. 
• The fruit should have green outer skin with firm hard flesh. Never use those which are ripening, i.e yellow in colour or with yellow patches. 
• They should be crunchy and very sour. 
• I prefer to buy the cayenne peppers, mustard seeds and other ingredients, clean them, sun them in the hot sun for two or three days and powder them. These days all these are available in the market and even the entire mix for the pickle is also available. Go for the best brands. But, the real challenge is in preparing freshly and mixing the spices as per our own requirements. 
• The cayenne peppers and mustards seeds and other spices once powdered should be used at the earliest, especially the mustard powder. 
• Cayenne peppers (or the powder used) should be dark red in colour. 
• Most people use the smaller variety of mustard seeds for pickling. I prefer the larger one as it is less pungent and more gentle on our tongues and stomachs :) :). 
• Salt is the most important condiment used for preserving the pickle. So its quantity should be carefully measured out and used. If used more, it will ruin the pickle, if used less, the pickle will not keep for long. 
• Dont use Table Salt or Iodised Salt. Those are purified ones and will not preserve the pickle. Use the  Common (crystallised) salt (రాళ్ళ ఉప్పు) after powdering or powdered common salt is available in the shops for pickling purposes. 
• Similarly, the oil used is also very important. Most North and Eastern Indians use Mustard oil. We in Andhra use, Sesame oil. The cold pressed sesame oil or the oil produced from unrefined sesame is best, as it is tasty and nutritious when compared with refined oil. The quantity of oil also plays an important role in preserving the pickle. 
• All the utensils or tools used for pickling like the plates or vessels used for mixing and the ones used storing, spoons etc should be cleaned thoroughly, wiped and sunned to remove moisture completely. 
• Its always better to use glass or ceramic ware for mixing or storing of pickles. Plastic and metals should be avoided at least for storing pickles.
• Pickles are generally stored in huge Jars or Jadis, closed tightly with the lids and then a muslin cloth is tied on the top to avoid any moisture. Small quantities for daily use are kept in small serving jars or glass bottles 

These are the Banginapalli or Benishan variety from my garden (last year). They are very sour to taste. However these are a bit ripened and cannot be used for Avakaya Pickle. 

These are the Ceramic jars used for storing little quantities and for serving on the table.

This is ceramic -we call then Jadi (జాడీ)- may be taken from Jar?

Ceramic Jars, glass bottles can be used for storing pickles for an year or two.

I prefer to buy the spices, clean them, dry in the Sun for two or three days and then powder them. This way I can have the best quality within my budget and the most important thing avoid any adulteration. But it involves some hard work and some time.

In my next posts I will give you the Recipes...So keep watching...